Category Archives: Other Mods

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mkiv technical articles

last updated

disclaimer: is not responsible for any negligence in installation or inaccuracies of the procedures.
use at your own risk!

   (basic performance upgrades)
& intake
downpipe photos
exhaust sounds
by dan marohl
filters test results! ( 1 )  ( 2

fitted apex’i air filter

by brian shoffner / shane duvall

apex’i air filter kit

drop in air filter photos
k&n cone filter extension mod
by todd rafferty
air filters catalog
filter boxes
greddy bcc install
& tune
highly recommended  
brian b. & brian b.
greddy boost cut
controller(bcc) notes
by lance wolrab / david ruder
free fuel cut defencer (ffcd)
not recommended  
by randy dellinger
hks fuel cut defencer (fcd)
not recommended  
by william cruickshanks

electronic boost controllers(ebc)
new avc-r install instructions &
basic tuning
by jeff lee
& mani jayasinghe
avc-r advanced tuning
by jeff lee
the new avc-r instructions manual
by mani jayasinghe
blitz dsbc electronic boost controller installation
by randy dellinger
blitz dsbc
users manual
by roger gerl
wastegate bleeder t mod
by randy dellinger
manual boost controller
by jason knippel / randy dellinger
by peter w.
vsv bypass mod
by brian b.
vsv mod
turbo essentials

blitz new bov kit
turbo timers
hks turbo timer installation
by shaun tran / brian b.
blow-off valve photos
stock bov mod
boost gauge install

by randy dellinger

photos install 
  by steve hayes 
   (basic performance upgrades plus)

cam gears install
brian b.

cam gears photos
fmic type-s photos
   by dusty / dan w. /
hesham o.
fmic install photos(for stock turbos)
by andi b.
   (basic performance upgrades plus plus)
control photos – (afc,sfc,vpc/gcc & more)
e-manage fuel controller install
   by steve v. & mohd a.
afc install instructions

by steve v. & robert s.

itc installation

by robert s.

install photos
apu    (advanced performance upgrades)
e-manage fuel controller install
pumps testing
   by david henry
control(afc,sfc,vpc/gcc & more)
afc install instructions

by steve v. & robert s.

itc install instructions
by robert s.
turbo kit photos & install
turbo kit photos
hks gt
intercooler install photos

by willie yee
hks t04r
install photos

by willie yee
twin turbo install photos
by reg riemer & benjamin
hks single turbo install photos
by reg riemer
vpc install instructions
by nick p. & alan stanek
fuel system upgrade with 720 injectors
by nick p.
/ photos
the following articles cover general
modifications to the mkiv supra.

4-Gauge Alternator Lead 
  by Alex G.

easy/inexpensive camera
  by larry bryant

racelogic traction control installation
by derek w.
bypass line mod

auto to 6spd transmission
   by mohd a.

trd twin clutch install 

akira o.
& melvin peoples
/ radiator panel pics & install

trac butterfly
lights electronic beam adjustment
   by dimitri keramidas
light mod
   by doug moore
power id installation instructions
(excel, 77kb)  
by scott h.
shifter installation instructions
by chris romano
stock fan mod  
by alan stanek
pressure sensor mod
gauge Install
   by larry m.
the headlights
   by huy vu,
peter shieh, daniel cabuco
hood scoop install
   by ron
lmbertson & piotr kapiszewski
short shifter photos
by peter w. & george datuashvili
floor bruce photos
   by nils
radiator photos & catalog scan
   by jeff hood
   by jeff l.
trd stainless steel brake lines
kit Install 
by brian b.
6spd shift knob photos
  by dave m.
front & rear strut brace photos / install
custom built front grill   by todd rafferty & mark josewski
strut brace installation photos & translated instructions
   by kirk
na supra direct port nos setup
   by dan wilson
true twin turbo conversion
(ttc) mod
   by randy dellinger
12 volt fuel pump mod   by bryce danna & brian b.
ebv mod   by noel samuel & jason knippel
trac mod
& speedlimiter mod
front brake cooling ducts
   by randy dellinger
documented / recorded mechanical problems
click here to download the infamous ‘death whine’, the sound caused by failure of the 2nd turbo,
or in few cases 1st turbo too (1mb, .wav format),  also here
on a video.(0.14mb, .wmv format)
problem solvers

trac off light + mil +
cruise control dropouts + no abs lamp
   by john cribb

OBDII Code Eliminator after Removing VSV’s 

by Tom Cardone & Al Stanek

burnt oil on start up? valve stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra
to reset your ecu?
lamp sensor fix
   by john cribb
sensor simulator (for 96-98)
   by george
a cup holder?
end popping noise cure
by trevor f.
srs airbag light on or flashing?   by randy dellinger
rear hatch rattle
   by mark josewski
targa top rattle fix  
by mark josewski
other info

Fuel Pump Upgrade Guide  
by  Jeff Lucius
tint removal  
by aaron rountree

techtom obd1 reader

6-spd ratio info, v160 & v161

(excel, 75kb)

  by lance w.

stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra turbo
phil panas

coolant flush
  by john cribb

to replace spark plugs on supra twin turbo

to replace spark plugs on supra na
read your spark plugs
spring rates
wheel bearing replacement
chris bergemann
chris bergemann
   by lance
h. advice on brake pads
   by jeff h.
your supra vin number
   by chris miller
dual-mass flywheel

answer about redLine d-4 question for the 6-spd transmission
tranny repair
   by carey morris
v161 article
alignment tech
   by ben lew
one user programmable features
  by carey morris
engine diagnostic codes
to dyno a supra tt
   by jason knippel

drag racing basics 
  by mark josewski

Removal of the Trac Pump & Trac Actuator 
manual resource

greddy fmic install
by jonathan
93-95 repair


hks afr


type-1 turbo timer –
coilover –
long 2-step rev limiter install & tuning  –
sbc-id manual –
oil filter relocation kit photos –
field’s sfc
evc ez
fmic type-s
bov install sheet
triple clutch –
hard pipes kit 

manual  by brian
oil pressure gauge
52mm boost gauge
egt install

turbo timer


keyless entry
   by bryce danna   by bryce danna
keyless entry install
rs3000 security system install


tech article links
All You Ever Wanted  to Know About 

Need a cup holder?

Cup Holders


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The Wizard cup holder
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The Wizard cup holder
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Front end popping noise cure


This is a HUGE VICTORY for me
and from what I hear I’m not alone in this search. Not
to slam to Toyota but I wonder if this should have been a recall….

The problem was a mysterious front end popping noise emanating from the
front drivers side suspension area of my 96 Auto TT.
This popping noise occurred from a standing start, hard left right turns or
even sometimes after braking hard then starting off again. This popping
noise was always most prevalent at low speeds (2-5 mph)

The confusion/ frustration starts when I started to trouble shoot my car
with only 13,000 real miles. I quickly realized that virtually this noise
could be from as many components as you could name from the Firewall

Any way after several unsuccessful dealer visits, days on jack stands, nights
laying in bed sleepless thinking what could be making the noise
a buddy and I finally figured it out.

Strangely enough it was the Drivers Side Motor Mount
The cost to replace
(installed) was $119.00 but it’s free if you have Power Train Warranty.

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To really isolate your individual problem, try the following (really)

Have a buddy to drive the car forward and back and load up the
front end by braking at about 2-3 mph fairly hard and hold the brakes hard.

Then, have him/her drive the car backward 10-15 ft and brake fairly hard
(this is not a beat the crap out of your car procedure)

Be sure to be standing next to the car and walk back and forth with the car
so that you can hear the popping noise…which by the way will most likely
be more apparent going backwards during this exercise…..

If you hear it under these conditions I would be 99% sure that its your
motor mount, especially if you have a well maintained vehicle

If you want to take it another step , take a wooden paint extender pole or
broom handle and have your buddy repeat the above braking drills ,
but on the reverse brake (where the pop should be occurring) walk with the
car and have the pole ‘square’ on the motor mount (with hood up obviously)
If you hear the POP and you have the pole in the right place you will
literally feel the POP up through your hand.

If it does vibrate crack a beer open and celebrate….

Good luck , I hope I can save someone some major headaches and time with
this experience……….because if your like me it was a little problem
that really diminished the driving experience of such an awesome car.

Now I can continue to Beat the crap out of C5’s without ‘Popping’ on launch.


Comments/suggestions? Email


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Srs airbag light on or flashing?

How to turn off
the airbag light

Disconnecting the connector behind the upper dash piece where the
odometer is located while the ignition key is turned on will result in the airbag light
staying on.

Here’s how to turn it off :

Go under the hood and open the diagnostic cap located on the
passenger-side near the firewall (see photo). Look for AB & TC.
Make two plugs with wire to fit into these connectors. With the ignition key turned to the
ON position alternate the two wires to the
negative terminal of the battery. They need to be done in a
consistent rhythm, about one second apart. TC,AB,TC,AB,TC,AB… This needs to be done
several times. If you can’t get it to work, try adjusting the speed. It is helpful to have
someone look at the airbag light while performing this to let you know when the light goes

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Targa top rattle fix

Targa Top Rattle

As long as I’ve had my 95 TT when it gets cold the targa top would
start to rattle, and I would have to tighten it down. Occasionally aggressive driving or
AutoXing would also cause a rattle. I always assumed this was due to the cold or the top
getting loose. Well it seems its not so….While driving to/around Houston last week, I
hit a *BIG* pothole right in the middle of I10! It jarred me and the whole car,
fortunately the wheels didn’t get tweaked. Unfortunately within a few miles the targa
started chattering worse than a set of GM F-Body Tops! I had to drive the 190+ Miles home
with every bump in the road causing my top to scream. I tried torquing the top in, but
that didn’t help. Actually, if I felt the top as I hit a bump, I could feel it moving!

Anyway…..When I got home, I whipped out the shop manual and took
the top apart. As I had guess, the bolts holding the rear “connection bolts” to
the top were loser than finger tight. I tightened them *real* good and put it all back
together (15 minutes). Since then I haven’t heard I peep out of the top!!! I haven’t been
to an AutoX since doing this, but I did drive the car up to Dallas in cold weather, and
again not a sound.

So…If you have a noisy Targa, try tightening those bolts. The
only tricky part was removing the weather stripping and Rain Sill without damaging them or
the sticky gunk that holds them on.


Thanks for the Tip Eric!


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Need to reset your ecu?


Oxygen sensor simulator (for 96-98)

Oxygen Sensor

Casper Electronics is selling
O2 simulator for OBD2 cars. It is about $40 and I ordered it right away to
compare with my simulator. The simulator from Casper is very small, and nice
looking with 4 wires coming out of it. I connected to battery and looked at the
signal using voltmeter. The signal appeared to be quite similar to signal that
555 timer circuit produced, but appeared more random. It should work. I haven’t
tried on my car, but looking at the signal, it looks even closer to the real O2
data that I had collected earlier. If square wave signal was enough to fool OBD2
MKIV ECU, this one will fool it too.



What is O2 sensor simulator?
The OBD-II cars (1996-1998) have the two O2 sensors to measure the amount of
oxygen in the exhaust gas. First sensor is measuring it right after gases escape
engine and this data is used to adjust fuel trim of the engine, as well as catch
some faulty conditions. The second sensor is located after the catalic
converter, and is used to detect the health of catalic converter. The ECU
expects the signal from the sensor to be oscillating from below 0.4v to above
0.6v, but not above 1.2v, every few seconds when cruising.

If you install the aftermarket downpipe with no cat (which as we all know is
purely for off-road applications) the ECU will detect this and indicate the
error (MIL). The ECU is quite lazy at detection, and detects this condition
approximately during second long trip. You can reset the ECU to clear the error
code, but it’s very inconvenient, as you don’t really know if the error was
because of oxygen sensor or some important thing is wrong and needs to be taken
care of ASAP. It’s also quite annoying.


How to build Your Own Oxygen
Sensor Simulator!
The rest of the page shows how to build an oscillating signal generator with
just the right frequency and voltage to fool the ECU. It is based on classical
astable operating mode of 555 timer, so nothing revolutionary there. However we
spent few days of fiddling and testing to get the right behavior.

The parts will cost about $15 – $20 from RadioShack. It’s not that hard to
build if you have some experience.

Electrical diagram:


R1 100 K Ohm
R2 1 M Ohm
R3 100 K Ohm
R4 10 K Ohm
C1 4.7 uF
C2 22 uF
D1 1.7v@20mA LED
D2 1.7v@20mA LED


Power source Ignition, or to the ECU
PIN #1
Ground One of the ground points or ECU
PIN #80
PIN #47
(disconnect the O2 sensor wire)

Catalog part numbers from RadioShack stores:
(NOT for their online

276-309 5mm wide angle red led 1.7v, 20mA
276-1723 The 555 programmable timer
276-1995A The 8 pin socket for timer chip. It makes soldering safer and
replacement easier
276-150A Generic PC board
64-3052A Pack of blue tap-in connectors
278-1225 Stranded wires (black, red and green)
270-1801 Small black plastic project box 3 x 2 x 1
272-1024 Capacitor, 4.7uF
272-1026 Capacitor, 22uF


Additional notes:
If you use different flavors of 555 timer chip or LEDs with different
parameters you will need to readjust the values of R4 and R2 to get the interval
and output voltage right.

Don’t attach it directly to the ECU right after assembly. Instead attach it
to the battery and check the output. You should get approximately 0v/0.7v
flipping about every 3.3 seconds when the car is not running, and 0v/0.9v when
the car is running. The current should stay below 10mA.

One LED should be always on whenever the power is supplied. Another LED
indicates when the output signal is high, so it should go on and off with the

When tapping the ECU wires, triple check everything before hooking up the
oscillator. The power source should read 0v when the key is removed, about 12.6v
when they key is at ACC and about 14.3 when the alternator is running. The
resistance between ground wire and the body shield of the ECU should be 0 ohms.
And it would be best if you run the car and monitor the voltage of the original
oxygen sensor wire before cutting it to make sure you have indeed got the right
one. The resistance between ECU PIN
and ground is about 1.3 to 1.6 M Ohm.

The original sensor should still be dangling around, or plugged into the
downpipe. The reason is that ECU also monitors the resistance of heater circuit
inside the sensor. If you want to COMPELTELY disconnect it, you will need to
measure the resistance of the heater circuit and install the right resistor
between ECU PIN
Anyway, there is no need to do it if you just leave O2 sensor alone and
only intercept the oxygen signal wire.

Above testing and precautions will prevent you from frying the ECU and
spending major $$$$. Anyway, I assume no responsibility if you still manage to
do so.

Thanks to:

Mohd A, providing documentation
Nick P, running the list,
Oolan Zimmer,
encouraging (and testing)
Steve V., RadioShack part numbers
Millhollin, testing the prototype

Feedback is welcome!



Trac off light + mil + cruise control dropouts + no abs lamp

TRAC Off Light + MIL + Cruise
Control Dropouts + No ABS Lamp

By John Cribb

These are mysterious, patient but well known and related problems
with MKIV Supra’s caused by cold solder joints or broken traces on certain
printed circuit boards in the dash warning lamp clusters.


  • The TRAC Off lamp may illuminate from time to time
    accompanied by a dimly lit MIL
  • Cruise control may stop working
  • Engine warning lamps in left hand side dash pod may or
    may not work at all
  • Any or all of these conditions can be manifested by
    giving either the left or right hand Warning Lamp cluster a sharp couple of
    raps with the knuckles, or pressing on them with 2-3 fingers.


The Fix:

  • Removal of engine Warning Lamp pods from dash, and a
    “touch up” of all exposed solder joints, along with inspection and repair of
    any broken printed circuit traces.


Tools Needed:

  • For the Warning Lamp cluster removal, one normal length
    #2 Philips screwdriver, and one “shorty” #2 Philips are all that are required.
    Magnetic tips are your friends here.
  • For the soldering job, a well lit work area, a 25 watt
    pencil tip soldering iron, and some rosin core (not acid core) soldering paste
    or flux, are required, along with 1-2 flat wooden toothpicks. The 25 watt
    pencil tip iron is just about perfect for this job as it melts the solder
    joints quickly, but doesn’t overheat or burn the board. A 15 watt iron doesn’t
    apply enough heat and this will cause “cold” solder joints, while a 50 watt
    iron will scorch the board. The toothpicks will be used to apply the rosin
    flux to the solder joints.


Warning Lamp cluster removal:

  • First, disconnect the negative battery terminal to
    prevent airbags from inadvertently going off and/or accidental short-circuits
    from occurring.
  • Next, get the soldering iron plugged in and heating up.
    The cluster removal won’t take more than 10-15 minutes.


Now, looking up under the instrument cluster, notice there
are five (5) screws. Remove these:


This upper trim piece with the left & right warning lamp
pods & odometer can now be pulled away from the dash:


Very carefully pull this piece away from the dash until the
connectors are exposed for the right & left warning lamp pods. Find the spring
releases on these connectors and release the harness and unplug the assembly. Do
not force anything here! Once you properly release the spring catches on the
connectors, they should unplug fairly easily. Do not pull on the wires
themselves, only the plugs & sockets:


Once the trim piece with lamp pods has been removed, it’s
time to take the lamp pods off and disassemble. Here is a photo of the left hand
pod where most of the problems occur:


Remove the black screws first, which hold the pod to the
trim, then remove the brass screws which will expose the two printed circuit
boards. Disassemble the unit.


Gently spread the boards apart to expose the solder
connections. Note how the main connector for the module is mechanically fastened
to the board by its solder joints – this is one weak spot, with the connections
for the ribbon cable also being suspect:


Now, apply a thin coating of rosin core flux to all the
exposed solder joints and “touch” each one with the soldering iron so that the
solder becomes molten again and flows through the joint. Leave the iron on the
joint only long enough to ensure the solder has reflowed, then remove it. Do not
jar or move the assembly for at least 5-10 seconds after removing the iron, as
this may result in a “cold” joint. If you have done this properly you should be
rewarded with a shiny new solder joint. Note, it must be gleaming & shiny – if
it looks dull, then you moved it while it was solidifying, didn’t heat it
enough, or you forgot to use the rosin flux to keep the joint clean. The use of
rosin flux is MANDATORY for this work. The high heat of soldering causes rapid
oxidation of the metal – oxidation leads to poor bonding, and poor bonding means
cold solder joints. If your joints are not shiny, you must do them again.

Repeat this process for each exposed solder joint, then
clean the excess flux off the board with a clean rag or paper towel and inspect
your work closely. Make sure all new solder joints are clean and shiny, and
ensure that no joints have accidentally shorted together by “bridging”.

If you have access to a good light source and a magnifying
glass, it may be useful to inspect the board traces closely for any evidence of
cracking or breakage as some owners have reported problems with broken traces on
their boards rather than just cold solder joints. If any broken traces are
noted, the break can usually be bridged by applying a “very” small bit of solder
at the point of the break. Keep in mind that less is best! Only apply a small
bit of solder to the tip of the iron – not even enough to make a visible “drip”
on the tip, then apply the tip to the broken trace and let the solder “heal” the


Once you are happy with this cluster, repeat the process
for the right hand odometer cluster. Note how many more connections it has due
to the display:


Finally, reassemble both Warning Lamp clusters in their
pods and into the trim piece, reconnect the wiring harness and reinstall the
trim piece into the dash. Note this trim piece has several pin & sleeve type
locators on both the left & right sides, as well as the top of the gauge
cluster. Make sure these pin & sleeve points are mated correctly as the piece
will not fit otherwise and/or something will break. Replace the five (5) black
trim screws, reconnect the negative battery terminal and you’re ready to test
your work.

Start the car, noting that the ABS lamp will stay on in the
left-hand pod for two seconds after the ignition is turned on (this is the ABS
self test). After this, confirm that all warning lamps have extinguished and the
car is running OK. Give both left & right pods a couple of sharp raps with your
knuckles, or apply finger pressure and see if a MIL can be produced. If this
procedure produced a MIL previously, and does not now, congratulations! Take the
car for a spin, over some railroad tracks if possible, or other rough surface
and continue to give the left & right pods some sharp raps and watching for
MIL’s or other warning lamps.

If any new Warning Lamps or MIL’s are illuminated, you may
have to disassemble the dash, pull out the instrument cluster, and resolder the
joints on this assembly just as you did for the Warning Lamp pods.



OBDII Code Eliminator after Removing VSV’s

OBDII Code Eliminator after Removing VSV’s

By: Tom Cardone & Al Stanek


prevent check engine light from turning on after removing the


Eliminates MIL Codes

Idle Air Control Valve Control Circuit
Wastegate Valve Control Circuit

Valve Control Circuit
by-pass Valve Control Circuit


Parts Required:
4 Resistors: 1K Ohm 1/2 watt resistors (Available at Radio Shack) and Electrical tape.


Time Required:
10 – 20 minutes



  • There are a total of 4 VSV’s. Two are
    located in front, right above the Alternator and below the coolant elbow. 
    The other 2 VSV’s are located on top above the rear turbo. See Yellow Boxes in
    Fig 1.1

FIG 1.1

  1. Two bottom VSV’s connectors as seen in
    Fig 1.2 (Blue Connector & Black Connector)
    In the Blue Connector, Install 1K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor.  In the Black
    Connector, Install 1K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor. See Fig 1.3 of the resistors
    installed. After Installing them use electrical tape as seen in Fig 1.4 and
    tape the connectors.



FIG 1.2                        
FIG 1.3                         
FIG 1.4

  1. Repeat the same operation for the top two
    VSV’s as shown in FIG 1.1
    In the Blue Connector, Install 1K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor.  In the Black
    Connector, Install 1K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor. See Fig 1.3 of the resistors
    installed. After Installing them use electrical tape as seen in Fig 1.4 and
    tape the connectors.


Optional, If you

plan on using these connectors you can cut them and solder in the resistor

See Photo’s below how we cut the harness short and soldered the resistors in
This was done to hide the resistors and harness under the engine cover…







This modification has been tested with success on two separate
1998 Supra’s!

If you have any further
questions please email


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Smoking burnt oil on start up? valve stem seal replacement on ’93-’98 toyota supra turbo


Valve Stem Seal Replacement on ’93-’98
Toyota Supra

Phil Panas

Old & New Seals

Disclaimer: Attempt this job only at your own
risk.  Potential risks of this job include (but are not limited

  • Dropping valves into cylinders
  • Dropping keepers into oil passages (which may
    require head removal), (or loosing them if they go flying across your
  • Scratching and/or bending valves
  • Putting the wrong valve stem seal onto the wrong
    side (eg. intake seal onto exhaust side)…they’re two different part
  • Not getting the seal properly seated – it will then
    slip up onto the valve stem and oil will leak (this will be like having
    no seal in at all)
  • Misshaping the seal when it is pushed into place –
    this will also cause a leak
  • Forcing or tapping the seal down too hard.
    The metal shell of the keeper, forced down too hard onto the top of the
    valve guide, can partially or completely cut through the rubber section
    at the top of the valve stem seal

Tools Required:

Seal Removal

Keeper Removal
Tool (on right)

Keeper Insertion

  • Pictured to the right is a hand-made pair of
    keeper tools.  The tool on the left in the picture is for
    keeper insertion and can be either made, or purchased (see
  • The tool on the right is for keeper removal,
    and is relatively easy to fabricate.  Simply use a
    high-density plastic (preferred) or a hardwood dowel, drill a big
    hole in the end, a smaller hole inside that one, and epoxy a
    strong magnet into the small hole.
    Here is a link
    where I believe you can obtain some of the UHD/UHMD Plastic
    Rod/Dowel that is used in the valve stem seal tools in the
    picture.  A 1″ dowel/rod should work well.
  • The removal tool’s inner diameter should be
    as large as possible, while still keeping a strong shell on the
    outside to take the force. I’d estimate that the inner ‘hole’
    should be about 5/8″, which would allow for a 3/16″ wall to push
    the retainer down with. If you wanted to be really safe, drill a
    1/2″ hole and then the wall will be a full 1/4″ thick – the
    problem is there might not be enough clearance for the keepers to
    pop out of the valve with a 1/2″ hole…
  • Place the magnet about 1/2″ to 3/4″ deep. The
    depth has to be enough so that the magnet never hits the top of
    the valve, no matter how much you compress the valve spring while
    pushing on the retainer. The magnet also can’t be too deep or the
    magnet will not be strong enough to ‘catch’ the keepers most of
    the time


  • This Snap-On
    (pictured on the right) will work for keeper insertion,
    but only if it is modified so that it doesn’t scratch the bucket
  • This tool is modified by taking a large file
    and filing the knurl on the end completely smooth so that it
    doesn’t scratch the bucket bores

Other Stuff:

  • New keepers, gaskets, etc. from Toyota
    • Exhaust: 90913-02088
    • Intake: 90913-02106
    • I’d recommend you replace the camshaft seals, the
      valve cover seals, and possibly the pcv, pcv hoses and valve cover
      bolt seal washers.  You also might want to change your plugs
      since they have to come out anyway.
  • Redline Assembly
  • Toyota Form in Place Gasket material (FIPG)
  • If this is your first time, consider ordering a few
    extra seals of each type, and a few extra keepers (just in case)
  • Lots and lots of patience, and at least 10 hours

  • Remove the two engine lift hooks from the
  • Remove cam covers, camshafts, and spark plugs
    according to Toyota Supra Repair Manual
  • Note that you should measure the shim
    clearance before removing the cams.  If any are out of spec,
    they can be replaced at the end of the install
  • Remove all of the buckets and shims, keeping
    them in order (do not mix them up – this is


  • Set the piston in cylinder#1 to BDC (Bottom
    Dead Center).  You can put the aluminum rod into the
    sparkplug hole and watch it while another person turns the
    crankshaft with a 22mm socket & ratchet to find BDC.
    Mark the depth of BDC on the aluminum rod for reference on the
    other cylinders.
  • Using the other aluminum rod (sharpening the
    tip a bit helps), stuff all 8′ of the nylon rope into the cylinder
    (as in the pic below), and then move the piston towards TDC (top
    dead center), until you feel the piston firmly compressing the
    rope against the head & the bottom of the valves.  The
    pic below shows cylinder #2 with the rope, but I’d recommend you
    start with #1, just to stay organized.
  • Note: In the diagrams, we’re working on the
    valve circled in yellow in the pic below.


Step 2:

  • Put the Keeper Removal tool on top of the
    retainer, and give the top of the tool a light blow with the big
    hammer.  The keepers will pop right out and stick to the
    magnet inside of the tool, as shown


  • Remove the spring&retainer, reach in with
    the seal removal pliers and remove the seal.  Again, don’t
    try this with needle-nose pliers: when (not if) the pliers slip
    off the seal, they will scratch the valve stem.  The
    intake-side seals are often on so hard that they are very, very
    difficult to remove, even with these special
  • After removing the seal, inspect the base of
    where the seal was installed.  Often (especially on the
    exhaust side), a ring of rubber from inside the old seal will
    break off, and you’ll need to use your aluminum rod to remove this

Step 4;

  • Coat the inside of the new valve stem seal
    assembly lube
    , and with your fingers or the seal pliers, place
    the new valve stem seal (make sure you put intake seals onto the
    intake side and exhaust seals onto the exhaust side) over the top
    of the valve stem, onto the top of the valve guide (as in the pic
    to the right).  Gently, and then gradually more firmly push
    the seal down with 10mm deep socket until it kind of
    ‘double-clicks’ into place.  Be sure you’re pushing the seal
    down as squarely/centered as possible so the seal seats properly
    and so the valve stem doesn’t get scratched.

Step 5:

  • With the deep 10mm socket over the valve
    stem, centered on the top of the seal.  Give two light, but
    firm blows with the dead-blow hammer.  Careful – if you hit
    too hard, it will misshape the valve stem seal, or the metal shell
    of the seal will cut completely through the seal’s rubber, ruining
    the seal.  On the other hand, if you don’t hit firmly enough,
    the seal might not be properly seated.  I estimate about a 2″
    ‘windup’ and a relatively firm (but not hard) hit.
  • As you might guess, this step is the most
    critical step in ensuring your new seals will perform
    properly.  If you suspect a seal may have gotten bent, or the
    rubber was damaged in this step, I’d advise to replace the seal
    now rather than hoping it will work after reassembly.

Step 6:

  • Replace the spring and retainer, and then
    carefully place the 2
    keepers into the retainer, above the top of the valve stem, as in
    the pic below.  Be sure not to drop the keepers – they can
    fall into inaccessible crevices, which may require head and/or oil
    pan removal.
  • Push the keeper insertion tool’s tip in
    between the keepers, and push down straight and fairly hard, and
    the keepers will pop into place.  NB: This technique takes
    some practice to perfect. Also, do not hit the keeper insertion
    tool with a hammer – your keepers will go flying across your
    garage or into your engine.
  • If only one keeper gets stuck in and the
    other is out, you’ll have to use the keeper removal tool to remove
    the one keeper and start this step over.
  • After the keepers look like they have been
    seated properly, give the top of the valve/retainer a tap with the
    plastic hammer to be sure they are locked in place.

Step 7:

  • Repeat steps 2 through 6 on the other 3 valves in
    the 1st cylinder, ensuring you use the intake-side valve stem seals on
    the intake side, and the exhaust seals on the exhaust side.
  • Move the cylinder back  to BDC, and remove the

Step 8:

  • Repeat steps 1-7 for the next 5 cylinders (and the
    other 20 valves in those cylinders)


  • Replace all of the buckets and shims, in the same
    locations they were removed from.
  • Replace camshafts and check shim clearances
    according to Toyota Supra Repair Manual.
  • Replace the camshaft seals using
    Redline assembly
    on the inside edge of the seals and FIPG on the outside edge of
    the seals.
  • Replace cam covers using new gaskets and preferably
    new sealing washers, along with the sparkplugs, coil packs, etc., all
    according to Toyota Supra Repair Manual.
  • Replace the two engine lift hooks