European Hood Scoop Install

By Ron Lambertson & Piotr Kapiszewski

 

Parts List:

76181-14900 Bulge, Hood
76182-14010 Guide, Hood Air Intake
76183-14010 Protector Hood Bulge, No. 1
76184-14010 Protector Hood Bulge, No. 2
76187-14010 Retainer, Hood Air Intake Guide, No. 1 (2)
76192-14010 Plate, Hood Bulge
93567-14512 Screws (8)
90179-06058 Nuts (4)
76186-14010 Seal, Hood Air Intake

Tools:

• Dremel tool and cut off wheels
• four plastic fasteners for the underside metal air guide
• masking tape
• drill and drill bits
• phillips screw driver
• 10 mm scket and ratchet
• razor blade or knife,
• medium grit sand paper
• piece of card board
• panel removing type tool (useful)

 

Step by Step:

Here is what you are going to start with:

 

Start at the front of the hood and first take that part out.

 

Remove the factory hood heat shield by popping out the
plastic fasteners.
  A panel removing tool is helpful.  Be
careful not to damage the heat shield.
  It’s made of a
paper/fiberglass material that tears easily.
  Notice the back two
fasteners don’t pop out.
  The just pull up, forward and out of the
holes in the hood.
  All others pop out completely.

 

Once you remove the heat shield your hood will look something like
this.

  

 

Using a drill bit of the appropriate size, now drill from the
underside
 of the hood through the four holes in the factory support
 used
to secure the studs to the hood.  Drill very carefully.
  The
hood is thin aluminum and the drill bit can bend the metal as it goes
through.

  

 

It may not be easy to see but this shot show you
 what the hood will
look like from the top right after the holes are drilled.

  

 

Now we are ready to make a template which will be
 used to mark the are
we need to cut out of the hood.

Click on this picture to get a pre-made
template,
 printing info labeled in this picture…

 

Temporarily assemble the two underside fasteners and plate with the
studs to the underside of the scope with the phillips screws. A little
soap on the screws will make them go into the unthreaded fiberglass easier
if they are really tight.  (Make sure you get the screws in perfectly
as there are no second takes here if you make a mistake). I had my scoop painted prior to starting this project.  In order
to protect it from getting scratched I used an old motherboard box with
padding on the bottom.
  

 

Now lay the cardboard template on top of the hood matching
 up the
four holes to the four holes you have drilled.
Mark the outline of
the template on top of the hood with a thin marker or pencil.
I used some spare zip ties and a screwdriver to align the form with the
drilled holes.
Once the outline is done you should end up with a nicely scratched hood
like in this picture.

  

 

Time to do some cutting. Mask off the are around the area you have marked.
  This will help
prevent any scratching of the hood paint while working.
 I also kept washing the hood with water to prevent scratching.

 

Once done cutting here is what you should see.
 Using the sand paper, sand the edges of the hole so they are
smooth.
  The hood is aluminum so it won’t rust.  I didn’t bother
painting the edges
 of the cut out. Clean the hood by spraying with a water hose.
  Don’t do any wiping
or the metal particles from
 cutting with scratch the paint.  Remove
the tape.

 

While the hood is drying lets cut a hole in the heat shield.
Here are some pics of the stock heatshield.

 

Now we put the whole thing back together.
Install the metal mesh into the scoop.  Install the underside
studs and the plate with the studs to the underside of the scoop if they
aren’t already on. Then fit it on the hood.

 

At this point I just put the nuts on to hold the
 scoop in place while
I reinstalled  the heat shiled.

  

 

Almost there. When installing the heat shield don’t
reinstall the center plastic fastners as they will need to also hold the
metal air guide.

Before installing the hood scoop permanently decide if you want to use
the factory gasket or not on it.  I used the factory gasket. Ron
didn’t. Instead of using the factory gasket and foam strips for the
underside of the scoop, I cut some thin strips of duct tape to serve as a
gasket.  I don’t think the factory gasket will look good once
installed.  It doesn’t wrap completely around the edge of the scoop
and it curves up and out so it will be seen when finished. Just make some
thin strips of tape and keep them slightly in from the edge.  When
mounted, the scoop will lay very flush but the tape provides a little
cushion and seal that can’t be seen.  I think the choice here depends
on the color of your car.

 

Insert the two factory fasteners in the middle of the air
guide.  Holes are already there.  Using a drill bit, punch small
holes through the four holes at the corners of the metal air guide through
the heat shield.  Insert the plastic fasteners into all six holes of
the metal air guide.  I had to slightly cut the new fasteners shorter
because there is little clearance between the frame of the hood and the
top of the hood.
   

 

One of the additional difficulties I had to work around was
 a front
strut bar which required some cutting of the metal air guide.
 You should
be able to see where the cuts needed to be made
 to clear the strut bar. I
used metal cutters to do the job.
 Since the metal air guide material is
soft its easy to cut.
   

 

Here is Kapi’s
car
  

Here is Ron’s car:

 

Notes:  I sanded and painted the metal air guide before
installing.

 

 

The BD Short
Shifter

To get yours Email : bdanna@mindspring.com

DoLuck Floor
Bruce

Stock Fan Mod

How to Control
your Electrical Fans with a Switch

Or you can have the electrical
fans running all the time
 by unplugging the fan harness hooked to the bottom of the radiator.

ÐÏ

Stillway
Shifter Installation Instructions
By:
Chris Romano

Disclaimer: 
Follow these instructions are your own risk. The author will not be
held responsible in any way shape or form for any damage, buy which may occur.
By following these instructions, the reader releases all responsibility,
reliability, or blame in any way shape or form.

 

– This document was
created in hopes of making installation of the Stillway shifter easier. 

– Please reference the
Stillway Shifter installation document (written in Japanese) when following
these instructions.

 

Page
1.

– When you open the
instruction booklet, page 1 details all of the parts necessary for
installation. Verify all components and proceed to page 2.

 

Page
2. 

Diagram 1. This
details the shifter and begins preparation for removal of the shifter. Begin
by unscrewing the factory shifter.

Diagram 2. This
illustrates the cover that must be removed in order to loosen the bolt that
allows the shifter to be disconnected. 
This cover covers the bolt required to release the shifter from the
transmission.

Note: When
jacking up the car, please take ever precaution to avoid injury. You will
need to have the car in neutral so, please double check the emergency brake. 
Also, a flashlight is recommended to view the necessary components.

Diagram 3. The
bolt to be removed faces the rear of the car. 
There are two bolts, be sure to only disconnect the bolt, which is on
the right in the picture.  You
will need a 9/16^th socket to remove this bolt.

Diagram 4. Remove
the leather cover from the shifter.  Remove
the ashtray, open the leather cover, which attaches to the shifter and
remove the plastic piece.

 

Page
3.

Diagram 5. With
a 10mm socket, unbolt the metallic metal cover form the bottom of the
shifter.  This piece helps in
keeping moisture and noise from entering the driver’s area.

Diagram 6. Now,
carefully remove the metal cover then, the rubber boot.

Diagram 7. More
detail on removing the rubber boot.

Diagram 8. Using
the 10mm socket, remove the metallic plate. 
Note the position of the plate before removing it! 
This will give you an idea of how the sequential shifter works.

Page
4.

Diagram 1. Remove
the metal pin that holds the factory plastic ring on the shifter. 
Basically, this piece should push out. 
Be very careful not to damage any of the plastic pieces inside the
plastic ring.  Personally, I cut
mine off making it easier.  You
will not need this piece later on. 

Note:
by cutting the plastic piece, you must use the sequential shifter, Toyota
does not sell this separately, and you will need to purchase a new shifter
if you decide not to use the sequential shifter.

Diagram 2. Upon
removal of the plastic ring, be sure to replace the plastic inside guide
exactly how it was inserted.  Be
careful not to damage this plastic piece!

Diagram 1. Take
the metallic piece and place it on the shifter. 
Carefully note the position of the hole be, sure to position this
exactly how it is pictured in the diagram. 

Diagram 2. After
the metallic piece is placed on the shifter, use the metal wedge provided to
secure the piece.  Make sure
that the wedge is perfectly centered and not sticking out on either side.

 

Page
5.

Diagram 1. Place
the shifter back into the proper position. 
Be sure not to place the shifter on backwards!

***Diagram 2. Ok,
now for the important part!  There
are two guides; the left guide has an angle built in. 
The right guide has a square shape. 
The guide with the angle should be positioned on the left such that
the angle directs the shifter towards the 3^rd gear gate. 
Carefully study the #2 diagram on page 5. When the shifter is in the
center position, each guide should slightly touch the square piece on the
shifter. Now, these pieces should prevent the shifter from moving left and
right and guide the shifter into 3^rd then back to 4^th. 
Basically, in this position, you should only be able to move the
shifter into 3^rd and 4^th gear. Make sure the shifter
cannot be moved left and right, do not allow play yet, allow the shifter to
be moved from 3^rd to fourth smoothly. Tighten the angled guide
securely and be careful not to strip the bolts! 
Then, place a washer on the left bottom bolt. There are two bolts,
one towards the front of the car and one towards the rear, place the washer
on the bolt that connects to the rear bolt. 
The reason I did this was to allow easier shifting into 6^th
gear. In order to go into reverse, the shifter will be moved to the far
right and then back.  So, when
you drive the car, be sure to be very careful not to over shift into
reverse.  

Diagram 3. This
describes how the shifter should easily move from 3^rd to 4^th
gear and not from left to right.  Notice
how once the shifter is between the gates, it will guide you into 3^rd
then, into 4^th gear…very nice ehe?!

Diagram 4. Take
the metal ring and place it on the shifter as shown in the diagram. 
Then, place the C clamp so that the ring will be secured.

 

Page
6.

Diagram 5.
First, secure the shifter onto the transmission carefully! 
Reconnect the bolt that connects the shifter to the fork. Then, place
the rubber cover back over the bolt. The kit comes with 4 rings and
instructions. On my car, I did not use these rings. 
My car is a 1997 so; these may not be required on other year Supras.

Screw
the new shifter on gently and position the hole on the shifter so that the
small allen bolt will screw in the “L” guide on the metal ring.

Adjust
the shifter so that when the ring is turned into “normal driving mode”
every gear can be reached.  There
are two modes, the first is normal mode, basically lift up on the ring and
turn so that the allen bolt locks and holds the ring in an up position
allowing all shifts to occur normally. 
Once the shifter is at the proper height, use the bolt provided to
secure the height.  On mine, the
allen bolt faces towards the back of the car…use this as a guide to
getting it adjusted properly.  Of
course, every car will be different.

Now,
to engage sequential mode, put the car in first gear and turn the ring so
that the ring drops.  What will
happen is, 1^st gear will shift into 2^nd as normal. 
Then, as you shift into 3^rd, the guide will set the
shifter into 3^rd gear…hence reducing the number of missed
gears!  Then, the guide will
guide you into 4^th gear. Notice in this mode that you shifter
cannot be moved from left to right. To get it back into normal mode, lift up
on the ring and turn to lock into normal position.  

Once
all steps are complete, take the car for a spin and make sure all gears are
smooth.  Some adjustment may be
necessary.  Note that the shifts
will feel a bit shorter and will take a little getting used to. 
From neutral into first, you may need to angle the shifter towards 1^st. 
This is normal, the gates are designed to guide all shifts more
efficiently. However, no grinding should occur! 
If your car grinds, adjust the unit so that the height is correct. 
Once you have finished testing the unit, replace the rubber boot and
the metal cover that secures the boot. 
Then, place the plastic cover and secure the leather to the shifter
allowing the ring to move properly.  Replace
the ashtray and you’re done!

Now,
practice with the unit in a parking lot. 
BE SURE TO TEST NEAR YOUR HOUSE! 
IN CASE THE SHIFTER NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED!

I
hope this helps! Enjoy the unit and I’ll see you at the races!

Thanks, 
Chris
Romano
http://www.angelfire.com/ab/teamdevious

 

 

 

 

How to Defeat
the Engine Check Light after Performing ANY EGR Mod

We apologize for the missing images, this article was missing for some time and brought back thanks to Archive.Org, unfortunately, some images could not be recovered

Purpose: To
prevent check engine light from turning on after performing any egr mod.

 

Parts Required:
10K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor, Available
at Radio Shack (Part #271-1126), Electrical tape.

 

Time Required:
3 minutes.

Steps

::

• Unplug the EGR gas temperature probe electrical
  connector pictured below. Insert a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resistor into the connector (fig. 3).
  This prevents a CPU trouble code from being tripped. Tape the connector with electrical
  tape to prevent the resistor from falling out.

Note:
it is hard to see the electrical connector on 97-98 models because it’s located
in the opposite position of 93-96, its between the manifold and engine valve cover towards the back
(firewall) – look for it using a flashlight. A screwdriver will help you unplug the
harness.

 

 

Removing the
TRAC
Butterfly

Stock Throttle Body With Trac
Butterfly

Modified Throttle Body with No Trac
Butterfly

HKS makes a kit to Remove
the Trac Butterfly (1312-RT001 /  MSRP $95)

Here are the parts that need to
be removed while using the HKS kit.

Here is a cheaper way to block
the holes after you remove the trac plate, abortion use heavy duty epoxy to fill the
holes.

This is Inside the Trac system (trac motor
side), 
All removed and filled with heavy Duty Epoxy

This is another way to remove the
traction butterfly, cut it off and weld it!
Clean looking huh?

Euro Glass Headlight

Photo’s 
|  Electronic Beam
Adjustment Install