Removal of the Trac Pump & Trac Actuator 

Removal of the
Trac Pump & Trac Actuator on 93-96 TT


Parts Needed:

– Toyota Brake line #47321-14280 (~$15-20).
this lines comes from the NA supra.
– 2x 10K ohm Resistors, 1/2 watt (radio shack, ~$1)
– One very short screw (cut it) &Teflon tape, 10mm x 1.0 pitch (Ace hardware,

or get a brake line fitting and tap a screw in
its center.
Two rubber caps,  5/16″  &  3/8″, 2
– Brake fluid & bleeding tools.

~3 hours

Tools needed: 
Pliers, 10, 12, 14mm Socket &
flat tip screwdriver, and rubber hose with hose clamp.


I want be clear, we did not do all that work to save 22 pounds, that work
was done clean up the look under the hood and make space where other parts
are just taking up space and not used anymore, like the trac pump…Also
makes it easy to reach the oil filter from the top..we also installed on EGR
block off plates, balance injectors, coated intake manifold..

***Here is how to do the trac pump removal mod in short,(93-96tt only!)

1) pick up needed parts as listed in this link

2) unbolt the trac pump and trac actuator, I was able to remove all the
parts without removing the brake master….plug the two ports on the brake
master with rubber caps & clips. install 2 resistors as shown in link above
in the harness…flush any brake line fluid with water right away if it
comes in contact with the paint!

3) you will have 2 lines left hanging across the firewall, a thick & a thin
line, chop up the thick line tell you get to the abs side, plug the end of
the thick line with a short screw and Teflon…

4) next chop up the thin line(remember its route carefully before you remove
it), get the new brake line and route it in place of the thin removed line,
this is not a walk in the park(hardest part), you will need to bend the new
line that goes on the driver side to route it behind the other brake lines(a
must), start routing from the passenger side to the driver side along the
firewall, the line should end up on the driver side into the brake
master(don’t screw it in yet), now pull the line a littlie further to the
driver side tell you can get it hooked to the abs on the other side, bend
back the line to its factory shape, tighten both ends…

5) bleed all brakes and check for leaks after test driving the car…

if you motor is out then all this will take you an hour to do…..if you
have a single turbo and no egr it would be easiest, hardest if you got stock
twins and egr in the way(like me)……

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