no trac phil

Removal of the
Trac Pump & Trac Actuator on 93-96 TT

-I bought
that Toyota part# for the brake line that you recommended, but I was able to
(very carefully) bend the oem line around under the brake master cylinder and
screw it into the side, instead of running the new brake line. It worked fine
with no kinks in the line, etc., and is probably easier than running a whole new
line… I’ll take a pic if you’d like to see it.Phil

-I didn’t use a bender for the smaller tube – I just
used both hands at
the same time to shape the tubing and make the bend as gradual as
possible. I had to take the tubing out of that 4-sided plastic clip
above the brake master cylinder to get enough length to bend the line
smooth and point it exactly at the port, and then it screwed right in.
Thanks again, Phil

Hi John,

No pics yet, but I can
take pics of whatever you need. I made extensive use of the article &
pics that Mohd did:

https://mkiv.com/tmp/no_trac/no_trac/

https://mkiv.com/tmp/no_trac/other/

…along with the
attached pic of the plugged abs port.

Here’s my summary of
what I learned that I didn’t get from the article:

1) I removed the trac
actuator first. It has 5 lines going to it – 2 top, 2 front, and one side:

2) The 2 top lines
simply go around to the side of the trac pump and brake fluid reservoir – the
brake fluid reservoir line is rubber-capped, and the other line comes off with
the trac pump

3) The short side line
goes to the brake master cylinder, and is simply removed. The small line from
the front is hand-bent to go into that side port.

As the article states,
the big line from the front is removed and is plugged on the other side of the
engine bay where it joins the abs cylinder (as attached).

As always, it was very
handy to have the Toyota Supra Repair Manual handy.

As far as hand-bending
that small tube, first pop it out of that plastic ‘holder’ that is directly
above the master cylinder. Then pull the line down and gently but firmly pull
it to give it a slight bend, so that it kind of wraps around close to the
driver’s side of the master cylinder. This pulling is necessary to get about
one more inch on the line so that it can smoothly reach the brake master
cylinder. Next, grab the line at it’s lowest point with one hand and at the
double 90-degree bend near the open fitting with your other hand. With your
two hands, rotate the end of the line with the fitting around the front of the
master brake cylinder and over onto the passenger side. The fitting starts to
the front driver’s side of the brake master cylinder and ends up on the
driver’s side about 1/3 of the way back. Work the line so that the threaded
fitting is pointing directly (100% perpendicular in both planes) to the hole
in the side of the master brake cylinder. If you work the line with both
hands to make sure that all bending&twisting is as gradual as possible, the
line will not kink. Just make sure both hands are either bending or twisting
simultaneously, with the hand near the threaded fitting twisting/bending doing
about twice as much bending/twisting as the hand on the line at the lowest
point. Needless to say, stop if you feel any part of the line starting to
bend too sharply, but if you are careful I am certain that this will not
happen.